Bad ball joint noise – something you definitely don’t want to hear when driving down the road. Especially if you’re far away from home or worse, civilization. Ball joints fail from time to time. It’s not a matter of if, but rather when.
Because of that, it’s good to know how to recognize the ball joint noise, how to diagnose a bad ball joint, and even how to change one if you’re up to the task. All of these things are precisely what we’ll discuss in this short guide.
What are Ball Joints Anyway?
The way the automotive suspension works is all kinds of interesting. From the shocks that keep the wheels on the road no matter the surface, small joints that bend and twist to accommodate for wheel movement.
The fact is that suspension, especially in the front, requires freedom of movement along various axes. This is where a ball joint comes in. A ball joint is essentially a ball-in-socket type joint, just like your hip.
As far as modern cars and ball joints go, there are often two on each side of the front suspension. You’ll most often find an upper and lower ball joint per wheel. These are critical when it comes to steering and suspension.
Why do Ball Joints Fail?
Just like any mechanical part, ball joints can fail. Most joints of this type consist of a ball enclosed within a casing, and the stud that’s sticking out. Problems start when debris and water penetrate the ball housing, essentially removing the lubricant in there and causing friction between the ball and the housing wall.
When will failure occur is anyone’s guess. Failure point depends on both the brand of ball joints that were installed and how the car was maintained. Brands such as Sidem and similar will go on for tens of thousands of miles easily. However, some of the cheap aftermarket parts from China don’t fare nearly as well.
If your car is of older vintage, you might want to check your ball joints from time to time.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Symptoms of a bad ball joint range from a subtle noise that appears every time you drive over a bump in the road to full-blown disintegration. Catching the issue while it’s still in its early stages is key.
This is one component that can cause complete wheel separation once it fails. Be extra careful if you drive the W124 Mercedes as they are notorious for losing a wheel when the ball joint fails as pictured here.
To diagnose a bad joint, simply lift the suspected side of the car, grab the wheel at 6 and 12 o’clock positions and start to rock it back and forth. If there’s any play or if you hear a clunk every time you wiggle the wheel, your joint is gone.
At this point, please start thinking about replacing it as it can significantly impact the steering. As it just so happens, the replacement process isn’t too hard.
How to Replace a Ball Joint?
Replacing a ball joint is fairly straightforward. The process might differ from car to car, but as long as it’s a double-wishbone system, it should be more or less the same. You’ll need some tools for this project, as well as your new sets of ball joints.
Get yourself a:
- Ratchet Set
- Various Open Ended Wrenches
- Large Flathead Screwdriver
- A Jack with Jack Stands
- Pry Bar
- Hammer
- Lug Wrenches
- Ball Joint Separator (optional)
Keep in mind that some manufacturers utilize control arm designs that feature integrated ball joints, like BMW. In this case, your best move would be to replace the entire control arm. Otherwise, you’re left with pressing each ball joint out of the control arm, which can be a pain.
Step 1 – Jack the Car and Remove the Wheel
First, we need to lift the car, remove the wheel, and set it up on jack stands. Once you’re sure that everything is stable and ready for work, this is when you’ll be able to assess the situation. Some car manufacturers place the upper ball joint under tension, so you’ll need to compress the spring before you start working on it. This isn’t necessarily the case with the lower control arm joint.
Step 2 – Remove the Bolts
In most cases, you’ll find that most ball joints are held in place with 2-3 bolts, especially on the lower control arm. Depending on your car’s brand, you might need to take out the axle bolt, which will allow you to move the entire hub towards you.
Step 3 – Remove the Hub Rod
Removing the hub rod can be tricky as there is usually a nut with a cotter pin at the top. Other times there might be a pinch bolt running through the middle of the rod that keeps it in place. In any case, remove both the cotter pin and the punch bolt. Next, use that large flathead screwdriver to try and pry it open a little.
Step 4 – Press the Ball Joint out of the Hub
Now that you can access the joint itself, use your separator tool to remove the ball joint from the hub. Depending on the damage it has suffered, this may or may not be easy, so be patient.
Step 5 – Install New Parts
With the new part installed, simply reverse the process. Also, it’s highly recommended that you tighten everything up while the suspension is loaded. Double-check the torque settings on everything and go for a test drive. You might also want to check alignment at some point post replacement.
Where Can You Find Quality Ball Joints?
Here at eEuroparts.com, we believe in quality above all. As a result, we offer only the best suspension components you can install in your European cars. Head over to our online store, input your car’s details and get a list of ball joints and other parts that match your vehicle.
In case you have any questions regarding the available choices, feel free to get in touch with us via email or by phone. Our customer support reps are standing by to offer assistance!
For the 9-5 specifically, is an alignment required if the balljoint is changed or taken apart? I’m reading conflicting info online.
For ball joints, an alignment is *not required* However, it is highly recommended to get an alignment because if they were worn out when the car was last aligned, or due to age other suspension components have also stretched or moved, that would contribute to the car drifting out of alignment. Of course, for items like tie-rods, an alignment *is required*.
In my experience (which may not be in conjunction with factory-recommended best practice), because the 9-5 ball joints are a standard size and not adjustable, they should not require an alignment after replacement – typically an alignment is required when making an adjustment to the steering rack, tie rods or ends, or suspension ride height (or if you have been in an accident). However, it never hurts to get your alignment checked if you are ever in doubt.
Ok thanks guys, that’s pretty much what I was thinking. A while ago I replaced tie rod ends, ball joints and struts/strut mounts but didn’t do wheel bearings. So a few months later I do the wheel bearings and had to take the ball joint off cause I couldn’t get the wheel bearing off otherwise. I didn’t touch any of the suspension stuff other than ball joints but the alignment shop said it was off. I figured the alignment was cheaper than new tires so I ok’d it, but I was still annoyed because like Sam says, there is no way to adjust the ball joint. Oh well. What’s $75 for an alignment in the grand scheme of things.